The joys of unplanned travel

One needs to get lost in order to find oneself.

Sometimes the impulse to just throw a few clothes into a bag and just catch a bus/train to no particular destination is so strong, it’s hard to resist.

A number of times while driving to work from Gurgaon to Delhi on the NH 8, I was so tempted to just turn around and drive the other way towards Rajasthan. No particular destination in mind. Just drive, stop at any place that seems interesting, explore.

Though in reality, it’s not very practical, or as a woman or solo traveller, very safe.

So though the unknown is thrilling and rewarding there needs a bit of planning in unplanned journeys. You pick a destination (one that you’ve always wanted to visit) and work towards it. A date, mode of travel, stay (at least for 2 days, you could always extend or find accommodation elsewhere)…and you’re set to go.

Research

Having no particular itinerary in mind is great. This way there is no pressure to visit everything on the list. But it does pay to know what’s on the list; that way you even know what to avoid. A good way to go about this is to do some research. Google it. Forget the trip advisors or other tourism sites.  Blogs and articles can give you a better idea of places to see and explore that do not often feature on regular lists. Talk to locals (once you get there). Who better to know the place then people who live there? Taxi drivers, shopkeepers, waiters…they are a treasure trove of information. You get to know of places to eat, cultural experiences, little known places to see.  You can come across experiences that are truly unique.  Just keep an open mind to everything.

Sure, you may come across an experience that you didn’t enjoy or may have been hard. But that’s part of thrill of unplanned travel.

Trust and instinct are a big part of this kind of travel. And it’s more important especially when you are travelling solo. When and when not to trust people who give advice; whether to trust cab drivers or hotel staff. Just trust your instincts. This is where it pays to do as much research as possible before you set out. It helps you make informed decisions.

Money – this again is a fine line balance – carry too little and you might be unprepared for exigencies; too much, and there is an issue of safety. A lot of offbeat places have no ATMs and small

places may not accept cards. Here again, research could help you know the nearest locations of ATMs.

Budget – this seems a bit of a contradiction. How do you plan a budget for an unplanned trip? Write down a number of what you will spend in a day – this includes stay, food, conveyance and a small buffer. The trick now is to keep it below the number that is planned. This way you always have something for the ‘unplanned.’Try find homestays - these are not just cheaper, but offer authentic cultural experiences.

Travel light

Carry only what you can in a backpack. It’s the most versatile luggage you can carry. If you are not travelling in rainy or cold weather, you could always launder. Or even pick up a cheap t-shirt to wear as a souvenir. Extra sock, sunscreen, a cap, waterproof shoes, a pack of wet wipes, a few basic medicines, a water bottle – these are really useful. You could save on buying water if you fill up at the hotel.   And don't forget your camera and charger.

Make friends

There’s a good change you would meet up like-minded fellow travellers. You could save on conveyance if you cab pool. Sharing experiences can be mutually beneficial.

Keep an open mind

There’s no better teacher than travel. But you have to be open to new experiences and be willing to take the roads less travelled. And like I said even not so great experiences could be exciting.

So throw away those itineraries and bon voyage.

On top of the world - Trek to Kuari Pass

Though having never trekked before, a chance encounter with old college friends sparked a trip to the Himalayas to embark on a trek. 

In hindsight, it was a tad foolish…a lot of things could have gone wrong. I barely exercised let alone climbed a mountain, so was in no physical shape; I had always lived at sea level, so trekking (for the first time) at 10,000+ feet was unwise; I lived in cities where the temperature never dropped below 20` C, so the only cold weather attire I had was a sweater (we were trekking in early October); and to top it all…I had less than 10 days to prepare for it all. But it turned out to be one of the most awesome things I have done, and I am so glad that I did.

For me, the journey to get to the start of the trek was the most arduous. I lived in Kochi then and my friends were in Chennai. So getting to the base camp at Auli was something like this – Kochi to Chennai by train – 12 hrs, Chennai to Delhi by flight – 3 hrs, Delhi to Haridwar by train – 6 hrs. Haridwar to Rishikesh by road – 45 mins, Rishikesh to Auli by bus - 15 backbreaking hrs. 

We were a motely group of 12 – a high profile corporate couple and their 10 yr old son, a couple of 39 year old (have to do something exciting before 40) women, an extremely gung-ho and effervescent sister of friend, 2 teenagers, a trekking enthusiast (husband of friend, and the only experienced trekker in the group), a couple of solo women trekkers (one from down under – OZ and one from US of A) and guide.

It was a 5 day trek – 3 up and 2 down – to a spot called the Kuari pass. Apparently it is a very popular trek in the Uttarakand trek circuit. Reasons being it’s an all-weather trek (doesn’t close in winters), it is classified moderate (so good for beginners too) and extremely picturesque. 

There are 2 ways to do this trek – one starting from Joshimat and two, from Auli (called the north face trek). The Auli route is more picturesque and exhilarating.

At an altitude of 4264 meters, Kuari Pass is like an amphitheatre, providing a 360` view of some of the most imposing peaks in the range including the Kamet (7756m),Trishul (7120m), Chaukhamba (7128m), and the great divine peak of Nanda Devi (7817m) and its twin Nanda Devi East (7434m). And these are interspersed with numerous others such as the – Nanda Ghunti, Hathi Ghoda Parbat, Neelkanth, Dronagiri, Mukut Parbat, Mana, Rishi Pahad, and Changbang, to name a few. 

So right from the time we started the trek we were accompanied by the view of a ringlet of imposing snowy peaks. The trek save for a few stretches was not arduous, just pleasantly tiring. We’d start the day around 9 with a healthy breakfast (we had a superlative cook among the crew who could dish out a maggi or a stuffed karela with equal élan) and then trek the whole day till about 4 in the evening where we’d set camp.

The route covered a beautiful meadow, a hilly plateau, thickly wooded alpine trees and deodars, along a sparkly stream of freshly melting snow, a narrow craggy trail around the mountain with nothing to hold on to one side and a really long and awning chasm on the other. 

Our experiences during the trek were varied, tiring, intoxicating, rewarding, surprising, enlightening and a whole load of fun. 

The whole point of trekking in a group is rallying for each other and getting to the destination. Some wanted to quit after the first day, some couldn’t wait to race to get to point B, some fell sick…but in the end we fought, we sang, we encouraged each other, we ate and slept together (for warmth), got to the destination and swore we’d all do this together again…soon. 

Train from Delhi to Haridwar

Stay @ Haridwar (Rishikesh) (catch a white water rafting if you have time)

Drive to Pipalkoti and stay overnight

Drive to Auli to start trek

Camp overnight in tent @ Gorson Bugyal

Trek to Tali (3310m)

Trek to Kuari Pass

And 2 days back either through same route or down to Tapovan and Joshimat.

  

Fort Kochi - beyond the backwaters

Despite living in Kochi then, this was one place that made me feel like a tourist every time I went there. It is so unlike the rest of Kochi or for that matter unlike any other place I’ve seen - A potpourri of Arab, Portuguese, Dutch, British, Chinese influences in a Kerala cauldron.

 Splendid Chinese fishing nets (the only place they are still used to catch fish) stand just

across the road of graceful Dutch and British colonial bungalows.  A wooden church built by the Portuguese where Vasco Da Gama was once buried (he was later moved to Lisbon), now a magnificent Basilica and still redolent of its Portuguese heritage, shares its walls with Kerala shopkeepers selling Tibetan bead jewellery in carts. Moors came in to trade and some of the mosques here date their heritage back to when they were here.

Today it’s still a medley of different cultures – predominantly Syrian Christians of Kerala descent; a large community of Gujaratis and Kutchis, some having set roots here almost a century ago, and continuing the spice trade; Tamilians, Kannadigas, Punjabis… A number of expats have made For Kochi their home, running cute little cafes and eateries.  

The best way to go around Fort Kochi is on foot. I used to love just strolling through raintree canopied quiet little lanes, stopping to admire a colonial bungalow or finding a quaint café for a lovely cup of coffee.  Streets with names like Princess street, Burghes street, Rose street invite you to take a stroll down its leafy arbours.  Even the commercial Coffee Day here is set on the top floor of a lovely building, which is built around a mango tree. Yes, the branches actually go out through the windows.

Other than the magnificent St. Francis church, the Dutch cemetery, a lovely promenade that skirts the backwaters where one can stroll through or sit to admire a gorgeous sunset, a library, and a tiny rocky beach, there isn’t much to see (in the traditional touristy agenda).  Kochites usually come in here to eat. It’s a sea food paradise. No surprise there.

Dining options range from street cart variety - freshly fried fish and kappa (tapioca – traditional Kerala food) to a gourmet experience set on manicured lawns of colonial bungalows. Try the karimeen (pearl spot) fry. A number of century old bungalows have been restored and converted to beautiful hotels such as the old harbour hotel and the Koder house, to name just a few.

Fort Kochi is slowly metamorphosing into an art and cultural haven. One could always find a place to watch a Kathakali performance or play. But in the last few years, a contemporary art festival has changed and charged the ambiance of an otherwise laid back place.

The Kochi-Muziris Biennale is an international exhibition of contemporary art held in spaces across Kochi, Muziris and surrounding islands. With contemporary art displayed in galleries and halls, and installations in public spaces, heritage buildings and disused structures, Fort Kochi transforms to a bohemian and arty space during the festival.

Fort Kochi is probably best experienced lived-in. So book a room in the many heritage hotels (they are pricey) or you go for a really authentic experience at a homestay, which will also give you better budget options - http://www.fortcochinhomestays.com/

There‘s a lot more to Kerala than the glossy brochures of the tourist department. Staying in Kerala gave me an insight into many. So stay tuned to my space.

Going solo – in Mcleodganj

Sometimes you need to get lost in order to find yourself. 

Thus was my first solo venture.  And to make it more interesting - no itinerary.

All that I had read and heard from friends about Mcleodganj convinced me that it was the perfect place for going solo.  It’s a 11-hour overnight bus ride from Delhi. A Bollywood movie, dinner and a fitful sleep later you are there. The option is a train to Pathankot and then a 2-hr drive by road. This is the train going to Jammu and so is always packed and difficult to get a seat on. You could always fly in into Gaggal – the nearest airport.  The bus is however definitely cheaper and fairly comfortable.

I had booked my stay. This is important. Especially if you are a woman travelling alone, it

pays to do some intense research and find a good and safe place to stay. In a place like Mcleodganj, with options (seemingly all awesome and starting as low as 500 bucks), a good (more expensive place) makes sense. Because the cheaper options are a throwback on 60’s bohemian/flower child culture. A drugs and booze paradise. Unless, that is what you are looking for. I chose Chonor house.  It’s a small guest house/hotel, run by the Norbulinka Institute (under the auspices of HH Dalai Lama himself. And it was one of the loveliest places I had stayed in, ever.

The best part of 1. being solo and and 2. having no set itinerary is that you can to choose and do exactly what you want. A Google or trip planner check or even asking the hotel reception will give you a standard list of ‘places to see.’ And being the home of the Dalai Lama and the pivot of the Buddhist culture, the list has a number of monasteries, a Tibet museum, lots of temples, art and cultural centres and the like.

     

I got out of hotel and just walked around. That is the best way to get a ‘feel’ of the place. Observing the marketplaces and the way the people go about their daily routine tells you so much more about the place, its people, the culture than any book can. Mcleodganj has a number of little cafes where one can sit for hours and watch the world go by. One such is the café at Green Hotel, with books and lounge sofas. It’s also one of the very popular hangout joints and a cultural hub. So if you want to get to know the happenings of the town, this is the place. It’s where a lot of tourists hang out, so it’s also a great place to meet fellow travellers and get ideas about unusual places to see or things to do. I even met a couple of other solo women travellers.

One hour with a lovely coffee and pastry later, I had enough fodder to plan my ‘to do’ list. I got tickets for a Tibetan diaspora film festival, an invite for a solo artist performing a lion dance, information about a slightly out of town Shiva temple (not on the standard list) with the actual Shiv Ling under a rocky cave in the middle of a river nearby, (wonder why this is not on the standard list!), the Masroor temple (about 40 kms away) reputedly built by the Pandavas, the St. Johns church in the wilderness, the Norbulinka art institute and of course the main Monastery which is adjacent the Dalai Lama’s residence.   If I had a few more days, I would have loved to include a trek to Triund. Anyways, I loved the 3 days that I spent here

.

Travelling alone is a thrill in itself. And is a journey of discovery not just of the place but yourself and life. It provides you with hitherto unknown perspectives and dimensions.

Trust is a big issue especially when travelling alone – who to and who not to. So just trust your instinct (and carry a pepper spray in hand.) My experiences so far - in Himachal and Rajasthan where I travelled alone – (touch wood) has been pleasant. And I have learnt a few things – like that it is better not to engage taxis arranged by hotel staff, because they charge more.  Most local taxi drivers are just concerned about getting a good fare – a good and hassle free customer is just as important to them.  So a good way is to engage one for the duration of your stay. They are then willing to give you a consolidated rate if you pay them at the end of your stay and are friendlier and more helpful.

Eat local. Not only is the food cheaper, it’s also better and more authentic. Don’t go to the touristy bazaars, try where the locals shop.  Talk to locals – taxi drivers, hotel staff, shopkeepers etc.; they are often a treasure trove of information. Don’t stay out late, it’s just not worth the risk – start early – you can get more done in the day. Don’t carry much money – you could always find an ATM somewhere.

I loved my first solo adventure and look forward to doing many more. And like I said, you sometimes do need to get lost a little in order to find yourself.